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Robin & Jim
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Posted By Robin & Jim

The contrast between the Keys and so-called "civilization" was really brought home over the last two days.  I finally stopped doing chores long enough to put my kayak in the water, and it felt wonderful to get back out on the water and to see my old friends - the birds and the sea critters.  In the first hour I saw small nurse sharks, stingrays, baby barracuda, jellyfish, crabs, tiny snails, various kinds of herons and egrets, ibis, pelicans, and kingfishers.  I took my camera with the new telephoto lens (THANK YOU JIM!!) and had fun trying to charm the birds.

tricolor

The pelicans are one of my favorites - they are the most amazing flyers despite their ungainly bodies and beaks.  They can take off with just a few flaps of their wings, and they cruise just an inch or two above the water on a cushion of air.  Appearances can be deceiving.

pelican

So where's the contrast?  We drove up to Fort Lauderdale and Miami yesterday to go to the watermaker dealer and to the Miami Boat Show - we had a specific list of to-do's and things to get, and it was a long but productive day.  We left the Keys at 0630 and fought heavy traffic on the highways all morning, with crazy drivers, construction, and just plain old congestion.  Horrible!  It took us almost an hour to travel about 20 miles.  "Civilization" is not civilized! 

The Miami Boat Show is quite a spectacle - it's a big international show that caters to everything from high-end megayachts to canoes.  The boats are spread among a number of different marinas in the area, and the entire convention center and grounds are filled with vendor booths.  This is just one section of the convention center.

boat show in miami

The show was smaller than last year, and the crowds were noticeably smaller - not surprising.  Testosterone is alive and well though - the big tricked-out racing boats with fancy paint and huge engines still turned heads and drew lots of lookers.  The trend of putting more outboards on the back of bigger T-top style boats continues.  I saw one boat with four large outboards, but this one with five 350 hp engines just took the cake!

five outboards

We met some friends at the show (I've said it before and I'll keep saying it - it's a very small world!), we got some ideas and useful information, and we got some decent deals on a few purchases we needed: small water separator filter for the dinghy fuel system, a replacement engine room blower, and some electronic and paper charts for the Bahamas.  The watermaker folks also fixed us up with a new valve assembly, chemicals, and some very helpful advice - so the trip was worth the time and hassle.  We didn't get back to the boat until almost midnight, but it felt good to escape the city craziness and return to the nicer pace here.  Now we go back to our chores and projects, and of course a little paddling.

 
Posted By Robin & Jim

I thought I'd share some thoughts about what makes the Keys such a special place.  Not everyone understands the Keys, but those who do are smitten with them! 

Driving south from Miami you pass through some mangroves and cross the bridge at Jewfish Creek - now you're officially in the Keys.  It starts with a feeling that you've switched from "regular" to "decaf".  Things move a little slower, and there are very few chain restaurants or big box stores; there's probably only one Starbucks in the whole 100 mile string of islands.  You can spot the locals - they drive more slowly and actually stop to let you make a turn or let you into traffic in front of them.  The tourists drive like they're still in Miami or New York. 

The Keys have many faces: the ticky-tacky side of things - tourist shops along Rt. 1 and Duval Street in Key West, but that's not what this place is really about.  Wander into the neighborhoods and it's quiet and interesting and beautiful and sometimes funky.  For instance, the gingerbread trim on the Key West houses is all different - history tells us that ship captains came here and they brought their shipwrights along to build their homes.  Each shipwright carved the gingerbread trim in a different pattern - all gorgeous.  There are restaurants in the neighborhoods away from Rt. 1 that cater primarily to locals, though anyone who can find the place is most welcome. 

No Name Pub on Big Pine is a perfect example of a funky place that (unfortunately) was "discovered".  It was featured in a book or two and a movie, so now it's packed with tourists and aging bikers (black leather can't hide the ravages of time).  Good thing the light is pretty dim in there. 

The DeFever "gang of 12" packed into two cars and we showed them how to find No Name.  The weather was still cold so you can see we're pretty bundled up for a tropical paradise!

DFC at no name 1

The walls and ceiling are covered with dollar bills (somehere north of $50,000), and the bar sign celebrates the local wildlife - the diminutive Key Deer.  Thanks to Rick from RICKSHAW for the great No Name photos!

DFC at no name 2

After lunch we took the gang to see our house under construction, and they gave us our first housewarming gift - that was pretty special. 

Just to continue the theme of how the Keys are "different", here are a few more examples:  The police here in Marathon wear crisply pressed white police uniform shirts with all the usual patches and badge, the impressive Batman Tool Belt, and ratty sun-faded blue cargo shorts and nasty old sneakers. 

There seems to be a pretty high ratio of kooks per capita here.  Some are locals, some are snowbirds, and a few are even tourists.  The Keys seem to bring out the best and the weirdest in our fellow humans.  The DeFever gang got together again last Sunday for cocktails and a book/DVD exchange, and we headed over to Dockside to hear a local band.  There is just no way to explain or describe the strange people and the gyrations that pass for "dancing"... but it's entertaining. 

It's the Keys...  fun, funky, different.  Aside from the different pace though, the wonderful things are the birds and underwater critters and the ever-changing blue and turquoise water colors.  That's the part that we really love, and why we love to be here.


 
Posted By Robin & Jim

We had a very nice three day stop in No Name Harbor on Key Biscayne, catching up on some chores and taking long walks into town and on the nature trails around the park.  We found a large bee's nest and I got to use my new telephoto lens to check out the action.

bees

The park is surrounded by mangroves and we saw some iguanas, herons, and lots of white ibis rooting around for food. 

white ibis

The weather was going to be settled on Thursday, and more fronts were due through the Keys on Friday so we left before sunrise Thursday for the 90 nm ocean run to Marathon.  The seas were a little lumpy at first, but they settled down nicely after about two hours, and we had a really nice trip.  Jim shot the first rays of light from the sunrise, and once the sun was up the water turned a beautiful turquoise color.

cape florida sunrise

We arrived in Marathon to the same marina where we stayed last winter.  We got in well after dark, but we were familiar with the approach and the crab pots weren't too bad this year. 

We were surprised to find some DeFever friends at the marina (and a friendly voice on the radio), as well as our MTOA friend Betty waiting to catch our lines.  Several other DeFevers are staying for a week or two at the other end of the harbor here, so a party was quickly arranged, and hosted aboard the gorgeous SEPTEMBER SONG.  It was a fun reunion of friends we last met in Maine in June, as well as friends we last saw in North Carolina. 

DFC party

Now that we're settled for a bit, we're diving into our big projects and to-do's with a vengeance.  There won't be much time for lolling about - we need to get things accomplished while we're sitting still.  We'll head up to the Miami Boat Show next week with a list of technical questions and parts that we need to get.  This is what cruisers do - they fix the boat in really nice places.  Luckily for us, there are some friendly faces and nice neighbors here in the marina to lend a hand or watch the sunset with.